Winter Motorcycle Storage: Battery, Cover, Checks

If your motorcycle or scooter is going to sit unused from November through March, how you store it now determines how much work you'll have to do to get it road-ready in spring. You don't need a fully equipped garage — just a few smart steps and half an hour of your time before you throw on the cover.

Why winter storage prep actually matters

During long-term storage, problems don't come from the cold itself but from three factors working together: the battery slowly draining even while parked, the tires developing flat spots from sitting in the same position, and moisture attacking the chain, rotors, and any unprotected parts. An hour invested now can save you a dead battery, tires that need early replacement, or a stiff, noisy chain come March.

Battery: disconnect it or keep it on a tender?

The battery takes the biggest hit during extended storage. Even with the bike off, small parasitic draws (ECU, alarm if fitted, clock) slowly drain it, and a discharged battery left in the cold risks sulfation — meaning it loses capacity, often permanently.

You have two valid options:

If you go with a tender, always confirm it's compatible with the type of battery on your bike: lithium batteries, for example, need different charge profiles than traditional lead-acid units. Many modern tenders — like those in the Noco Genius line — have selectable modes or settings for exactly this reason. Before hooking it up, check the battery's label for its type and read the tender's manual.

Indoor cover: not all covers are equal

If the bike is staying in a garage, basement, or shed, a breathable indoor cover is almost always the better choice over a generic outdoor tarp or, worse, a non-breathable plastic sheet. Material that doesn't let the bike breathe traps moisture underneath it, and after two or three months you can end up with rust on the tank, forks, and rotors even though the bike was kept indoors. Covers like the Oxford Protex line are built specifically for this: soft, breathable fabric with no abrasive lining touching the paint. When picking an indoor cover, check the listed size (based on the bike's length and overall dimensions, not just engine displacement) and go for a model with a soft inner lining if it's going to sit directly against the bodywork.

Tires: getting the pressure right even when parked

During long storage, tires slowly lose pressure, and if they sit in the same spot the whole time, they risk developing a slight flat spot on the contact patch. Before covering the bike, bump the pressure up slightly above the riding value listed in the owner's manual (usually a few PSI or a couple tenths of a bar higher — check your model's specific figure) and, if you can, roll the bike forward or back a few inches occasionally during winter so it's not always resting on the same spot. If you have a center stand or paddock stands, lifting at least the rear wheel takes weight off the tire and reduces the risk of flat-spotting.

Fuel: full tank or empty?

For storage periods of a few months, most mechanics recommend a full or near-full tank rather than an empty one: it reduces condensation buildup inside and limits corrosion on the walls of metal tanks. If your bike has a manual fuel petcock, check the owner's manual for how it should be positioned during storage.

Chain: clean it before storage, not after

Right before parking the bike is the ideal time to clean dirt and grime off the chain and apply a good chain-specific lubricant. A dirty, dry chain left sitting for months tends to rust at the contact points between rollers and links, and you'll feel it immediately as stiffness when you start riding again. Clean with a dedicated product, dry it, then apply fresh lube — a few minutes of work that saves you an early chain replacement.

Where to park it

If you have the option, choose a dry space that isn't too cold and has at least some airflow: tightly sealed garages and basements actually encourage condensation. If the bike has to stay outside, a waterproof outdoor cover is a must, but it's still less protective than storing it indoors.

Printable checklist before storage

• Battery: decided whether to disconnect it or hook it up to a tender matched to its chemistry
• Tire pressure brought up to the correct value, bike lifted if possible
• Tank full or nearly full, fuel petcock positioned per the owner's manual
• Chain cleaned and lubricated
• Bodywork washed and dried before covering
• Correctly sized breathable indoor cover fitted properly
• Dry parking spot, checked occasionally throughout winter

When it's worth a trip to the shop

Winter storage itself is something anyone can handle, but if you notice odd noises, fluid leaks, weak brakes, or worn rotors before parking the bike, don't wait until spring to get them checked. Brake or suspension issues should always be assessed by a mechanic — better to deal with it before storing the bike than after, when it's easy to forget about.

FAQ

Should I disconnect the battery or leave it on a tender all winter?

Both approaches work. Disconnecting it avoids any parasitic drain but still needs periodic recharging; a tender keeps the battery ready to go at all times, as long as it's compatible with your battery's chemistry and wired up correctly.

Can I use an outdoor cover if the bike stays in the garage?

Better not to: outdoor covers are often less breathable than indoor ones and can trap moisture against the bodywork. In an enclosed space, a breathable indoor cover sized correctly for your bike is the better choice.

Should I leave the tank full or empty for winter?

For storage of a few months, a full or nearly full tank is generally preferable, to limit internal condensation. Still, check your owner's manual for any model-specific guidance.